Gary and Rhonda Forever: AN HISTORIC SPRING BREAK IN ROME: March 9-16, 2013

Spring Break in Rome -- what a great way to temporarily numb the pain of turning sixty years old! Rhonda hits the big six-OH NO on February 26th -- so a therapeutic escape to Rome is planned, in part to fulfill a wish to see the Sistine Chapel. We purchase skip-the-line tickets to the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel well in advance for admission on Monday, March 11th, 2013. So imagine our surprise when Pope Benedict XVI announces his resignation ... setting up the need for a Papal Conclave to be held in the Sistine Chapel ... sometime in March. Five days before we leave for Rome, the tour company notifies us that the Sistine Chapel will close to the public on March 5th, to prepare for the Papal Conclave. By now, this news is not unexpected -- but still very disappointing. On the bright side, we will still spend six amazing days in the Eternal City of Rome!

ARRIVAL IN ROME: March 9, 2013

Although we land at Rome Fiumicino International in the light of early evening, it is dark when we finally shuttle into Rome. City lights are on, making sights even more impressive. Our driver takes us past the Colosseum, Roman Forum and many beautiful churches. So far, so great!

We usually stay at Marriott hotels, but find a great rate at the five-star Hotel Splendide Royale, located 1/2 block off exclusive Via Veneto along the Old Wall and Villa Borghese (the largest park in Rome), with great views of the Vatican and the park.

Beautiful Hotel Splendide Royale - Rome, Italy

The hotel staff is friendly and helpful. We feel smart to have chosen this great place.

Gorgeous views of the Vatican and Villa Borghese from Hotel Splendide Royale.

TOURING ANCIENT ROME: March 10, 2013

During a cruise excursion in June 2008, we briefly toured the ancient areas of Rome -- the Colosseum and the Roman Forum -- but it was a rainy day and we were rushed through the sites as part of a very large group. We did not set foot on Palatine Hill, walk along Circus Maximus, place a hand into the Mouth of Truth (La Bocca della Verità) at nearby Santa Maria in Cosmedin Church or see Michelangelo's famous statue of Moses at St. Peter in Chains Church just a few steps up Via Cavour from the Forum. We plan to do all of these things and more on our first full day in Rome.

On March 10th, we are blessed with a gorgeous morning. We begin the day at the popular Spanish Steps near Spagna station, where we access the Metro.

View from Spanish Steps on March 10, 2013

We take the subway to the Colosseo station, grab a quick breakfast, then head to the entrance of the Colosseum. We are the first ones in line, but large tour groups soon begin to arrive. At 8:30 am, the huge gates open and we actually lead the way into Rome's top attraction!

Exterior of the Colosseum. Each of the pillars flanking the ground-level arches weighs five tons. It took 200 ox-drawn wagons, shuttling back and forth every day for four years, to bring the stone here from Tivoli.

The oval-shaped arena is 280 feet long by 165 feet wide. This 5:3 length to width is called the golden ratio.

Vestal Virgins and VIPs occupied marble seats with their names engraved on them.

The white cross marks the box of the emperor -- located, of course, at ringside.

View of the Arch of Constantine from the Colosseum.

From the Colosseum, we walk to Circus Maximus, where we imagine the likes of Ben-Hur racing around this track in chariots. The track at Circus Maximus measured 1,300 feet long, while the whole stadium measured 2,130 feet by 720 feet and seated 250,000 people!! The wooden bleachers once collapsed during a race, killing thousands.

Track at Circus Maximus along Via del Circo Massimo

At the far end of the track, we're just around the corner from Santa Maria in Cosmedin Church, and the famous Mouth of Truth (seen in the movie Roman Holiday with Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn). Gary tests his honesty by placing an arm deep within La Bocca della Verità. The photo below ends up sideways on this version of Blogger. There's no obvious way to rotate it, so turn your head instead!

Gary tests the Mouth of Truth at Santa Maria in Cosmedin Church

After exploring the interior of Santa Maria in Cosmedin Church, we retrace our steps past Circus Maximus to the entrance of Palatine Hill.

View of Palatine Hill from Circus Maximus.

It's a long, winding climb to the top of Palatine Hill.

Palace Stadium held arcades, gardens for strolling and an oval running track.

Private Wing and Lower Courtyard of the Palace of the Emperor.

Fragments of columns, cornices and arches that once decorated the Palace.

Frescoes adorn three rooms in the House of Augustus, the first emperor of Rome.


View of the Basilica of Constantine and Roman Forum from Palatine Hill.

Climbing down Palatine Hill is easier than climbing up, but the path is still rocky. We're stiff from five hours of walking. We're also hungry, but don't want to leave this area before seeing the Roman Forum. Protein bars help ward off hunger until we can stop for lunch.

We begin a self-guided Forum tour at the Arch of Titus, then visit the Basilica of Constantine (seen from Palatine Hill in the photo above). We take plenty of photos. Here are a few highlights:

Temple of Antonius Pius and Faustina (A.D. 138-161)

House of the Vestal Virgins

The Curia (Senate House)

Column of Phocas (Forum's last monument--A.D. 608)

Forum's Main Square

Temple of Saturn (Forum's oldest temple--497 B.C.)

Gary in front of Arch of Septimius Severus (A.D. 203)

We are starving when we leave the Forum. We eat at a sidewalk cafe along Via Cavour, near St. Peter in Chains Church, our next stop.


Chains said to have bound St. Peter - St. Peter in Chains Church

There are actually two sets of chains in the glass box under the alter of St. Peter in Chains Church. One set is said to have held Peter when he and Paul were in the Mamertine Prison in Rome. The other set dates from when Herod jailed Peter in Jerusalem (Acts 12). When the Jerusalem chains arrived in Rome (as a gift from an Eastern empress) and were paired with the Mamertine chains, the two sets are said to have joined together miraculously.

However, the highlight at this church is not the chains -- it's Michelangelo's unfinished masterpiece, the Tomb of Pope Julius II. Michelangelo personally sculpted the centerpiece of the tomb, the famous statue of Moses. We take photos of Michelangelo's Moses from several vantage points. Unfortunately, all are in portrait format, so it's time to tilt your head again...

Michelangelo's Moses - St. Peter in Chains Church

Our first day in Rome comes to an end. We are exhausted, stiff and sore all over. Thank goodness for Aleeve. It's early to bed, since our day at the Vatican will begin bright and early -- at 7:00 a.m.

TOURING THE VATICAN: March 11, 2013

We are in Rome with thousands of pilgrims preparing to gather in St. Peter's Square during the Papal Conclave. To avoid big crowds and long lines, we tour St. Peter's Square and Basilica the day before the Conclave begins. When the Vatican opens at 7:00 a.m., we are there. We have the basilica nearly to ourselves from 7-8:00 a.m.

Unbelievably, St. Peter's Square is nearly empty at 7:00 a.m.

Look -- no lines!! Special mass does not begin until 8:00 a.m.

Christ and the Apostles Keep Watch over St. Peter's Square.

Michelangelo's Pieta -- just inside the entrance to St. Peter's Basilica.

Cherubs offer Holy Water

Don't forget to look up -- the ceiling is gorgeous.

It's nice to see a statue of the living, resurrected Christ within St. Peter's Basilica.

The elevator up to the base of St. Peter's dome is scheduled to begin operating at 8:00 a.m. We leave the basilica to get in line. While waiting on the basilica's front porch, we watch a workman install red draperies over the central balcony and window of St. Peter's, in preparation for the new pope's first public appearance.

A workman installs red draperies over the central balcony and window of St. Peter's Basilica.

At 8:30 a.m., the elevator finally opens. It takes us as far as the roof, then we begin the challenging climb to the top of Michelangelo's famous dome. Views from the top are well worth the effort!

Looking to the east for a great view of St. Peter's Square.

Rhonda is relieved to complete the claustrophobic, 323-step climb.

Looking northeast toward the Sistine Chapel and Papal Apartments.

Looking southwest toward Vatican Station.

Looking north toward Pius IV's Casina and the Vatican Museums.

After returning to the base of the dome, we enjoy these lower, still spectacular views from the roof:

We exit the elevator straight into St. Peter's Basilica and continue to look around until 9:30 a.m., when we begin the walk from St. Peter's Square to the Vatican Museums.

Installation of the papal draperies is nearly complete.

Walking around the Vatican Wall toward the Vatican Museums.

It would be ideal to browse the vast Vatican Museum collections in small doses. There's too much to see in just four hours. When our legs and feet finally give out, we eat a late lunch in the museum cafeteria. This rest provides the boost we need to shop the museum store and walk back to Ottaviano station for the short subway ride to the Spanish Steps. Here are a few highlights from the Vatican Museums:

Egyptian Rooms - Mummified woman who died three millennia ago.

Octagonal Courtyard - Lacoon, sculpted between 125 and 60 B.C., the most famous Greek statue in ancient Rome.


Jesus Leaving the Tomb - Tapestry designed by Raphael's workshop.

Map Gallery - 16th-century maps show regions of Italy.

First Raphael Room - Polish King Jan III Sobieski liberating Vienna.

Second Raphael Room - The Immaculate Conception.

Constantine Room - General Constantine wages a coup d'etat and becomes emperor.

The Raphael Rooms usually connect visitors with the Sistine Chapel, but ...

... since the Sistine Chapel is closed to prepare for the Papal Conclave, a detour ...

... reroutes us through the long line of corridors that comprise the Vatican Library.

CENTRAL ROME: March 12, 2013

As we leave the hotel early on our third morning in Rome, we are very aware that the Papal Conclave begins on this day. Low and behold! Just a half block up the street from our hotel, we run into a cardinal and his support team exiting the surprisingly well-appointed Cappuccin dormitories located in a very exclusive section of Rome. Our guess is that these guys are heading to the Vatican.

We climb Palatine Hill on Day One. We climb St. Peter's Dome on Day Two. Our leg muscles, feet and backs are now incredibly sore. So what's in store for Day Three? Of course, another climb! Today we climb Capitoline Hill, to spend the morning at the Capitoline Museums.

Beginning the day at the base of Capitoline Hill, near the Roman Forum.

Here are a few highlights from the Capitoline Museums:

Massive foot of Constantine - Chunk of the giant statue that once held the place of honor in the Basilica of Constantine.

Marcus Aurelius (A.D. 176) - The greatest surviving equestrian statue of antiquity.

Dying Gaul - First-century copy of a Greek original to celebrate the Greek's victory over the Galatians.

Marforio (2nd or 3rd century A.D.) - Personification of Ocean, the God who reigned over the world's waters.

Here are some great views of the Roman Forum from the Tabularium of the Capitoline Museums:

After lunch at the Capitoline Museum cafe, we climb more stairs to the Victor Emmanuel Monument, where we take the Rome from the Sky elevator to the roof for the grandest 360-degree view of the center of Rome.

Wonder if the Conclave is sealed up in the Sistine Chapel yet?

After a brief stop at the Santa Maria in Aracoeli Church (also on Capitoline Hill), we try to find an exit through the Victor Emmanuel Monument out onto the front steps. Construction makes this impossible, so we finally access the steps through a side door. The oversize monument to Italy's first king is definitely over-the-top. It's 200 feet high and 500 feet wide. The 43-foot-long statue of the king on a horse is the biggest equestrian statue in the world.

This statue of King Victor Emmanuel is the world's largest equestrian statue.

Eternal Flames flank Italy's Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.

Just after we leave Victor Emmanuel Monument, it starts to hail like crazy.

Hail, Caesar? It's definitely Hail at Caesar's Forum!

Due to unexpected hail, we change our afternoon plan to tour Trajan's Market. Instead, we head for indoor alternatives that are close by. With umbrellas in hand, we make a run for the Pantheon.

The Pantheon is packed with many, many others who are also seeking shelter from what is now cold rain.

A 30-foot-round oculus in the center of the dome is the Pantheon's main source of light. On this afternoon, the oculus also admits rainwater and very cold air. As the crowd within the Pantheon grows, officials repeatedly request more reverence.

Raphael's Tomb in the Pantheon. The tombs of Italy's two kings, Victor Emmanuel and son Umberto, are also there.

As the rain continues, we finally leave the noisy, chilly Pantheon to tour the quieter and warmer Church of San Ignazio. After a half hour or so, we head up Via del Corso to an inviting cafeteria/gelaterie. We order gelato cones then look for a table downstairs. Locals are watching television coverage from the Sistine Chapel, where cardinals are taking an oath of silence. We pull up chairs to assess possible popes -- keeping an eye out for the cardinal we saw earlier that day.

Before returning to the hotel to crash, we grab fast food at McDonald's near the Spanish Steps. We note that the Spanish Steps are still crowded, even in the rain.

TOURING PILGRIM'S ROME: March 13, 2013

We learn from Rick Steves that pilgrims to Rome try to visit the four great basilicas: St. Peter's Basilica, San Giovanni in Laterno, Santa Maria Maggiore, and St. Paul's Outside the Walls. We visited St. Peter's on Monday. Today we set our sights on San Giovanni and Maggiore.

San Giovanni in Laterno -- the first Christian Church in the city of Rome -- was opened around A.D. 318. Christians could finally worship openly without fear of reprisal. This church served as the center of Catholicism and the house of the popes until the Renaissance renovation of St. Peter's. Until 1870, all popes were crowned here. Even today, it's the home church of the Bishop of Rome -- the pope.

Beautiful morning in front of San Giovanni in Laterno, the first Christian Church in Rome.

The Bishop's Chair in San Giovanni Basilica (seat of the Bishop of Rome--the Pope)

Tomb of Pope Martin V in San Giovanni Basilica

After touring San Giovanni in Laterno, we cross the street to the Holy Stairs. In 326 A.D., Emperor Constantine's mother brought home the 28 marble steps of Pontius Pilate's residence in Jerusalem. Jesus climbed these steps on the day he was sentenced to death. Each day, hundreds of penitents climb the Holy Stairs on their knees, reciting a litany of prayers. During our visit, at least twenty of the faithful are praying at various levels along the Holy Stairs.

Our next stop is across town, back up on Via Veneto, at the crypt of the Church of Santa Maria della Immaolate Concezione -- also known as the Cappuccin Crypt. As we wait on the stairs for the crypt to open, gray clouds overtake our once-beautiful, blue-sky morning and it begins to rain once again -- which is actually more fitting weather for touring crypts.

Photo from the stairs of the Cappuccin Crypt. Morning skies have turned from blue to gray...

The Cappuccin Crypt is probably the weirdest, most macabre thing we have ever seen -- four rooms artistically decorated with the bones of 4,000 Franciscan friars: Crypt of the Skulls; Crypt of the Hips; Crypt of the Tibia and Fibula; Crypt of the Three Skeletons. Definitely creepy!

Now we head to one of the four great Roman basilicas -- Santa Maria Maggiore. According to legend, one hot August night in 432 A.D., Mary appeared to Pope Liberius in a dream, telling him: "Build me a church where the snow falls." The next morning, a small patch of snow was discovered on Equiline Hill and the building of the Santa Maria Maggiore church was immediately begun.

(Note: This basilica was visited by Pope Francis the morning after his election. He actually tripped on the stairs in Maggiore's Pauline Chapel, where we had been the previous day.)

Front of Santa Maria Maggiore, one of the four great Roman basilicas. Although it's across town from the Vatican, this church is Vatican property. As you step into Santa Maria Maggiore, you step from Italy into another country!

Francis performed his first mass as newly-elected pope in Maggiore's Pauline Chapel.

The above relief shows Pope Liberius shoveling snow on Equiline Hill in the year 432 A.D.

Bernini's Tomb is at the side of Maggiore's main alter. The plaque reads, "Gian Lorenzo Bernini (1598-1680) who brought honor to art and the city, here humbly rests." Next to it is another plaque to the "Familia Bernini."

After a nice, sit-down lunch near the Museum of Rome, we tour the Baths of Diocletian. These baths once sprawled over ten acres and could accommodate 3,000 Romans at once. In 1561, Michelangelo began transforming the great central hall of the baths into the Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli. Special care was taken to preserve the ancient exterior of Diocletian.

Naiad Fountain in Piazza della Repubblica, across from Baths of Diocletian.

Ancient exterior of Baths of Diocletian

Michelangelo refit ancient baths into Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli.

From the Baths of Diocletian, we stroll up the famous Via Venoto -- lined with Rome's poshest hotels and restaurants and the U.S. Embassy -- through the ancient wall of Rome and into the Villa Borghese Gardens, Rome's largest park. Although the park is just through Porta Pinciana from our hotel, this is our first visit. We find fountains, statues, a lake, bike and rickshaw rentals, picnic areas, a zoo, miles of paths and several museums. The park's main attraction is the Borghese Gallery, which houses one of Europe's greatest private art collections. (We will visit Borghese Gallery on Thursday.)

Borghese Gallery's sumptuous collection fills a cardinal's mansion in the park.

One of many beautiful fountains in Borghese Gardens.

Statue of King Umberto I

During our Via Venoto walk earlier that afternoon, we saw the Hard Rock Cafe. We return there for dinner. Hard Rock is packed, so we shop in their store until our buzzer goes off. It's the usual dining experience. My fajitas are tasty but Gary's strip steak has an unusual, suspicious flavor.

Following dinner, as we walk toward our hotel, we hear the very cheerful peal of church bells. Gary thinks these may be bells from St. Peter's and speculates that a new pope may have been selected. We turn on the television as soon as we get back to our room and ... white smoke has already appeared, indicating the Conclave has selected a new pope. CNN reports that the new pope will be introduced to the world from the central balcony of St. Peter's Basilica within the next 45 minutes or so. We are 2 miles from Vatican City.

In hindsight, we should have set out on foot, by taxi or Metro for St. Peter's. We could have arrived before the new pope was announced. We met a young LDS couple from Salt Lake City in the Borghese Gallery the following morning who did leave for St. Peter's as soon as they knew a pope had been chosen. They saw television coverage of the white smoke from their room at the Marriott (just a few blocks from our hotel), hailed a cab in front of the hotel and made it to St. Peter's Square in plenty of time to wind their way into the center of the crowd for the historic announcement and papal address.


Cardinal Jorge Mario Bergoglio of Argentina has been chosen to become Pope Francis I.

BORGHESE GALLERY AND HEART OF ROME WALK: March 14, 2013

The Borghese Gallery wisely controls admission to their amazing collection. This museum is so popular, reservations need to be made several weeks in advance. 350 visitors are admitted every two hours. Once the two-hour limit is up, the museum is cleared and the next group of 350 enters. We hope to make the most of our two hours -- 9-11:00 a.m. on Thursday, March 14th.

Preparing to conquer the Borghese Gallery in two hours!

Rick Steves' gives the following glowing praise for the Borghese Gallery:
"More than just a great museum, the Borghese Gallery is a beautiful villa set in the greenery of surrounding gardens. You get to see art commissioned by the luxury-loving Borghese family displayed in the very rooms for which it was created. Frescoes, marble, stucco, and interior design enhance the masterpieces. This is a place where--regardless of whether you learn a darn thing--you can sit back and enjoy the sheer beauty of the palace and its art."

The Borghese Gallery is spectacular! We especially enjoy the gorgeous, unbelievably intricate Bernini sculptures. The above photo is of Bernini's David (1624). The face of David is a self-portrait of Bernini at the age of 25. We definitely recommend the Borghese Gallery to anyone planning a visit to Rome!

As we leave the Borghese Gallery, we are thrilled to see blue skies above -- great weather for our walk through the Heart of Rome this afternoon. Here are some highlights of that walk:

Santa Maria del Popollo Church

Piazza del Popollo

Ara Pacis - Emperor Augustus' Alter of Peace

Rain-swollen Tiber River

Four Rivers Fountain (a Bernini masterpiece) - Piazza Novana

Two small fountains flank Four Rivers Fountain - Piazza Novana

Pantheon on a clear day - Piazza del Rotonda

Trevi Fountain

Exterior of Trajan's Market - Ground Level

Exterior of Trajan's Market - Second Level

Sculpted Marble Fragment - Trajan's Market

Interior of Trajan's Market

APPIAN WAY AND THE CATACOMBS OF SAN CALLISTO: March 15, 2013

Four miles south of the Colosseum, past the ancient wall of Rome, lies an original stretch of the Appian Way -- Rome's first and greatest highway system. We spend our final morning in Rome hiking this section of the Appian Way. We pass several crumbling monuments, the Tomb of Cecilia Metella and the Circus of Maxentius.

Ancient Wall of Rome

The Starting Point of our Appian Way Walk

Imagine riding in a chariot along this uneven, rocky road.

The Tomb of Cecilia Metella

We think this is the Circus and Villa of Maxentius.

Touring the Catacombs of San Callisto is definitely the highlight of the morning. San Callisto was the official cemetery for Rome's early Christians and the burial place of nine third-century popes, other bishops of Rome, and various martyrs. The most famous martyr was St. Cecilia, a Roman noble who was killed for converting to Christianity. Her tomb is marked with a copy of a famous Maderno statue (donated to Callisto by an American).

The Catacombs of San Callisto were constructed four levels deep in limestone rock. Construction was from the top down. The top level (closest to ground level) was constructed first, so is the oldest area within the catacombs. The fourth level (the deepest) was constructed last, so is the "newest" area in this ancient complex. Each level is comprised of a huge maze of corridors. Tombs are stacked four or five tombs high along the sides of each corridor. There are also family crypts and religious rooms within the catacombs. A six-foot-wide shaft from ground level through all levels was constructed every two-hundred yards to provide light and air to the catacombs. Eventually 500,000 Christians were entombed here.

Since no photography is allowed in the catacombs, the following are scans of postcards:

Tomb of St. Cecilia

A Family Crypt

Our final stop along the Appian Way is Domine Quo Vadis Church, which is said to be built on the spot where Peter, while fleeing the city to escape Nero's persecution, saw a vision of Christ. Peter asked Jesus, "Lord, where are you going?" Christ replied, "I am going to Rome to be crucified again." This miracle gave Peter the courage to return to Rome.

Domine Quo Vadis Church

The supposed footprints of Jesus Christ.

Like Peter, we also return to Rome -- but we go by bus, then by subway to Spagna Station. After lunch, we use most of our remaining euros to shop for souvenirs near the Spanish Steps. We also grab a cone with three flavors of gelato at Giolitti's, Rome's most famous gelaterie. Then we climb the Spanish Steps one last time.