GARY AND RHONDA CRUISE NORWEGIAN FJORDS: July 9-23, 2017
A 2016 business trip to Norway fuels our desire to return and see more of this gorgeous country. In early January 2017, after extensive research into possible Norwegian fjord cruises, we make reservations on the 14-day "Voyage of the Midnight Sun" aboard Holland America's newest ship, The MS Koningsdam.
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AMSTERDAM: Saturday, July 8, 2017
We arrive in Amsterdam at 9:15 am on Saturday, July 8th, aboard a flight from Houston IAH. We always enjoy the amazing views from the air as we approach Amsterdam, especially the extensive network of waterways and canals. The ingenuity of the Dutch people, who reclaimed so much land through their levee systems, never ceases to impress!
We catch the Courtyard Shuttle just outside Schiphol's arrival terminal. Surprisingly, our driver is the same white-haired man (probably in his mid 70s) we remember from 2011, when we stayed at the Courtyard prior to a Baltic cruise. He likes that we remember him, turns out to be quite the kidder, and makes us the target of his jokes. We check into the Courtyard; drop our bags in the room; take the shuttle back to the airport, where we catch a train into Amsterdam. Whew!
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| Photo from Bridge outside Amsterdam's Central Station |
We wait in a long line just outside Central Station for the Hop-On Hop-Off Bus. Two buses come and go, but we finally secure great seats atop the third bus. We spend several hours traveling the full circuit, while enjoying bird's-eye views of the city.
Once off the bus, we walk across the street for another tour of Amsterdam, this time aboard a one-hour cruise through Amsterdam's main canals. This area was placed on the UNESCO
World Heritage List in 2010, adding to Amsterdam's fame as the "Venice
of the North." Here are photos taken during the canal
cruise:
Next, we head for a late-afternoon meal in the colorful kitchen of der Bijenkorf's department store on Dam Square. Their great selection of food, which so impressed us in 2011, is just as delicious today. We're starving, so treat ourselves to generous bowls of stir fry, followed by several desserts. Yum!!!
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| View toward Dam Square from der Bijenkorf's |
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| After Six Years, We're Back in der Bijenkorf's Kitchen! |
After dinner, we take photos around Dam Square, then return to Central Station along a business-lined pedestrian street. Of course, we make a mandatory stop at the nicest gelateria we can find!
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KONINGSDAM SETS SAIL FROM AMSTERDAM: Sunday, July 9, 2017
Holland America's Koningsdam sets sail on Sunday afternoon at 4:00 pm. To our amazement, this huge ship uses side thrusters to turn around in the center of the canal before heading out to sea.
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| View from Koningsdam's Sky Deck -- Before Turning Around |
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| View of Central Amsterdam -- While Turning Around |
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| This area is across the canal from Amsterdam's Central Station. |
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| Interesting Boat-Hotel along the Canal in Amsterdam |
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STAVANGER, NORWAY — LYSEFJORD CRUISE TO PULPIT ROCK: Tuesday, July 11, 2017
We arrive in Stavanger, Norway at 7:00 am on Tuesday, July 11th. In July 2016, we spent time in Stavanger, so have already seen much of this beautiful city. Instead of hanging around town, we take a cruise excursion to Pulpit Rock. Unfortunately, this is a rainy day. As our tour boat passes under Pulpit Rock (a promontory which juts more than 1,500 feet above Lysefjord), we can barely make out the faintest outline of what should be an jaw-dropping scenic wonder. The first two photos below are from the Internet, to show what Pulpit Rock looks like on a clear day. The last four photos below are from our cruise excursion to Pulpit Rock:
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| This is the jaw-dropping view of Lysefjord from Pulpit Rock on a clear day. |
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| This is the spectacular view of Pulpit Rock from Lysefjord on a clear day. |
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| This is the very faint outline of Pulpit Rock we see on July 11th. |
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| However, the rain makes the waterfalls even more spectacular! |
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| Our tour boat gets "up close and personal" with this waterfall!! |
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| Light rain is still falling as we return to the Koningsdam at 5:00 pm. |
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EIDFJORD, NORWAY — EIDFJORD CRUISE AND VORINGSFOSSEN WATERFALL: Wednesday, July 12, 2017
The Koningsdam arrives in Eidfjord, Norway at 7:00 am on July 12th. Eidfjord is a charming village at the head of the fjord, built on sand and gravel moraines from the last Ice Age, some 8,000 years ago.
At the far end of the Upper Eidfjord Lake, we stop at Fossli Hotel to see the famous Voringsfossen Waterfall. A path leads down to a viewing platform offering a stunning view of the waterfall as it cascades down into a deep canyon almost 600 feet below.
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| On Viewing Platform of Voringsfossen Waterfall |
We return to Eidfjord and continue to Simadalen. Here we change from bus to boat for a one-hour fjord cruise.
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| Pier in Simadalen, where we board Eidfjord Cruise |
As we cruise Eidfjord, we see more magnificent waterfalls falling off steep mountains, as well as the Kjeasen mountain farm, perched like an eagle's nest approximately 2,000 feet above the fjord.
We pass the Koningsdam as our excursion boat returns to the pier in Eidfjord.
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| We can never pass up pictures with a troll! |
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| Returning to Koningsdam at 4:00 pm |
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| Ready for an unforgettable evening in Koningsdam's Dining Room |
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After departing Eidfjord at 5:00 pm, we spend the remainder of the evening cruising beautiful Hardangerfjord.
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| Like magic, rainbows begin appearing through our dining room window! |
We are flush with Kroners, so make friends with the dining room maitre d' aboard Koningsdam!! We are taken to an excellent window table for two at the back of the dining room. This turns into a magical evening, as rainbows begin appearing over the ship's wake. First we see single rainbows. Then double rainbows appear. Pretty soon, everyone in the dining room is stopping by our window to take pictures! Dining room staff who have worked on fjord cruises for years are equally enchanted. All claim that nothing like this has ever happened during their time on cruise ships. The ship's itinerary for this evening says "Scenic cruising of Hardangerfjord"
— which turns out to be something of an understatement. These are the most amazing rainbows we've ever seen, which created a one-of-a-kind evening we'll never forget!
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| It just keeps getting better and better as we cruise Hardangerfjord! |
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| Double rainbows appear, which are hard to capture from our window. |
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| Blessings from heaven following a drizzly day! |
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ALESUND, NORWAY — ROMSDAL AND THE TROLL PATH: Thursday, July 13, 2017
The
Koningsdam arrives in Alesund, Norway at 10:00 am on July 13th. Alesund was a stop on this past season's "The Amazing Race" — This episode aired on April 20, 2017. Since we're enthusiastic viewers, we recognize several areas of Alesund, including Aksla Viewpoint, atop Town Mountain.
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| Aksla Viewpoint on Town Mountain—A Destination on "The Amazing Race" |
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| Coach Awaits Our Excursion Group in Alesund |
After a sightseeing tour of Alesund, our coach follows the shoreline of Storfjord. We stop for a buffet lunch at a restaurant in the midst of beautiful fields of sweet strawberries. Without a doubt, these are the most delicious strawberries we've ever tasted!
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| Shoreline of Storfjord |
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| Colorful Marina on the Other Side of the Bus |
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| We stop for lunch and eat the best strawberries we've ever tasted! |
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| Strawberry Fields Forever |
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| Beautiful Flowers on Path to Gudbrandsjuvet |
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| Gudbrandsjuvet—Another gorgeous waterfall, with great viewing platforms! |
We follow the valley towards Trollstigen (the Troll Path), passing the impressive Gudbrandsjuvet Gorge. On top of the mountain, you can still see signs of the old road built in 1028 by Viking King Olav. From the highest point on the road, 2,800 feet above sea level, we drive down the famous Troll Path with its eleven hairpin turns leading to Isterdalen Valley. Too bad it's misting, as the windows on the coach are spotted with raindrops.
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| Impressive waterfalls spill over cliffs at top of Troll Path.. |
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| Viewing Overhang at Top of Troll Path |
This is an Internet photo of Trollstigen or "The Troll Path"
— one of the most spectacular roads in Norway and one of the most popular places to visit.
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| Eleven hairpin turns go down, down, down Troll Path. |
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| Endless waterfalls cascade from every possible angle. |
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| See the large bridge at center of photo to gauge the impressive scale here. |
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| The Troll Path is a crazy gorgeous place, even in the rain and mist! |
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| These waterfalls are much larger and longer than they look. |
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| Roadside trolls are as tall as a two-story house. |
We stop at the famous Troll Wall — well
known to mountaineers all over the planet. This wall has the highest
overhang in Europe and is visited by world-famous climbers each summer.
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| Hang gliders were banned from Troll Wall due to many mishaps. |
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| It's nice and sunny as Koningsdam departs Alesund at 5:00 pm. |
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TRONDHEIM, NORWAY: Friday, July 14, 2017
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| Lovely view as we stroll from the pier to Nidaros Cathedral |
We visited Trondheim in July 2016. Today, we enjoy walking through this beautiful city again. Trondheim is one of the loveliest cities in Norway. Here are places we see for a second time:
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Nidaros Cathedral—We toured the cathedral and climbed the tower in 2016.
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Old Town Bridge
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Bakklandet — The Old City of Trondheim
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| King Olav Tryggvason Statue in Torvet (Central Square) |
This afternoon, we see the German cruise ship, Mein Schiff, docked along the Trondheim pier. Mein Schiff, the former Celebrity Galaxy, was rebuilt in 2011 by TUI Cruises. Many passengers from Mein Schiff are climbing the hill to Kristiansten Fortress, above Old Town Bridge. We follow to see what's up. We learn that during the German occupation of Norway during World War II, the Nazis executed Norwegian patriots at Kristiansten. During the legal purge following World War II, the fortress was also the official place of execution of traitors and war criminals. The notorious Henry Rinnan was executed here on February 1, 1947, along with nine of his followers. This must explain the German interest in this particular fortress, which was originally built in 1681 to protect the city against an attack from the east.
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| Kristiansten Fortress - Used by Nazi occupying forces during WWII |
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| Norwegian resistance fighters were shot here during WWII. |
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| Silent Howler by Laura Ford (2016) |
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| Silent Howler by Laura Ford (2016) |
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| Gary with Troll Friend at Kristiansten Fortress |
Beautiful Views of Trondheim and Vicinity from Kristiansten Fortress:
Things we see during our walk back to the Koningsdam:
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| Trampe —World's First Bicycle Escalator! |
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| Directional Signs in Bakklandet (Old Town) |
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| I don't know the name of this statue of a girl with a cow. There must be a story! |
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We Return to Koningsdam — Along Trondheim Pier
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HONNINGSVAG, NORWAY—NORTH CAPE TRANSFER: Sunday, July 16, 2017
The Koningsdam passes into the Arctic Circle on Saturday, July 15, 2017, which is a day at sea
— as we sail up, up, up the coast of Norway. From our table at breakfast on Sunday, July 16th, we get a nice view of North Cape as we sail past our main destination for the day. Many aboard our ship have specifically chosen this cruise so they can visit North Cape, so we realize it's a very big deal!
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| We sail past North Cape during breakfast and run onto the deck for this photo. |
We access North Cape via a transfer from Honningsvag, the northernmost city of Norway. Here are a few pictures as we sail into Honningsvag:
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| We see Honningsvag, Norway in the distance. |
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| It's a beautiful, clear day in the Honnigsvag/North Cape area! |
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| Need I say it again? Honningsvag is the northernmost city in Norway. |
As we set out from Honningsvag by coach, we quickly see the barren landscape that is the hallmark of the windswept Arctic Circle, where vegetation appears sparse indeed. To the botanist, however, it is quite plentiful, with 200 species of plants growing here. The drive to North Cape takes about 45 minutes. This is what we see enroute:
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| Gorgeous Turquoise-Blue Waters |
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| Arctic Beach — No Sunbathers in Sight! |
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| Beautiful Little Island Cabins |
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| Hotel and Summer Camp |
The North Cape is an enormous rock with a steep face, climbing more than 1,000 feet from the Arctic Ocean below. At a latitude of 71 degrees 10 feet north, the North Cape is remarkably civilized, with a post office, chapel, bar and restaurant. There are interesting monuments and statues all around the visitors center. "The Globe" by Assaf Spiegler is a magnet for tourists. It's impossible to take an individual photo with "The Globe." A dozen others are always in the shot, too
— especially with Koningsdam's photographers on site!
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| Gary at North Cape with "The Globe" in the Distance |
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| Sheer Cliff Faces of North Cape Look Out onto the Barents Sea |
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| Visitors Center Sign Shows North Cape's Latitude/Longitude |
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| Approaching "The Globe" at North Cape |
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| Gary beside "The Globe," along with Everyone Else! |
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| Foreground—Children of the World Monuments; Background—Visitors Center |
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| Children of the World Monuments |
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| Mother and Child Monument |
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| Gary builds a small cairn to mark his visit to North Cape. |
We are advised to watch for reindeer during the drive to and from North
Cape. Sure enough, we see reindeer around every bend. We even stop for
a reindeer to cross the road!
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| Funny Reindeer Choose to Rest on Patch of Snow! |
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| This troll in Honningsvag looks like the one at EPCOT! |
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| Last Glimpse of North Cape As We Turn Back South |
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GEIRANGER, NORWAY—MT. DALSNIBBA & EAGLE ROAD: July 19, 2017
!!! OUR FAVORITE DAY IN NORWAY !!!
After two days at sea, we finally arrive in Geiranger at 7:00 am on Wednesday, July 19th, and it's well worth the wait! This is a perfect day in Geiranger, one of Norway's most popular resort areas, along the most gorgeous fjord in Norway
— Geirangerfjord! We choose an excursion which takes us up a winding mountain road, offering an ever-changing kaleidoscope of mountain farms, waterfalls, lakes and streams.
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| Lake Djupvatn (Deep Lake) |
From Lake Djupvatn (Deep Lake) we continue up hairpin twists and turns to the summit of Mount Dalsnibba, which offers spectacular views of Geirangerfjord far below and the magnificent mountain peaks all around.
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| Oh, What a Beautiful Morning above Gorgeous Geirangerfjord! |
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| On Top of Mount Dalsnibba, Kinda Covered with Snow ... Tra, la, la |
From the summit, 5,000 feet above sea level, we drive back down the same road, stopping at the Flydal viewpoint to take photos of Koningsdam, peacefully anchored in Geirangerfjord.
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| The MS Koningsdam — Anchored Way Out in Geirangerfjord |
Once we're back at sea level, we continue to the north side of the fjord where we drive up Eagle Road, as far as the famous viewpoint at Eagle Bend.
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| Back at Sea Level, but Not for Long |
Eagle Road's eleven hairpin turns (much like Troll Path) are carved into the mountainside and inspire a healthy respect for the skills of Norwegian engineers. Our driver has trouble finding a parking place at the viewpoint, so drops us off and continues up the road. From the top, we can see the famous De Syv Søstre (the Seven Sisters) waterfalls!
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| Geirangerfjord from Lower Platform, Eagle Bend Viewpoint |
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| The Seven Sisters Waterfalls from Upper Platform, Eagle Bend Viewpoint |
It's hard to find our bus again in all the congestion at Eagle Bend. We eventually reconnect and drive back
down Eagle Road to Geiranger.
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| We're back in Geiranger following the tour excursion. |
We already know what comes next during free time in Geiranger
— climbing to Storfossen along the lovely Waterfall Walk. It's a beautiful, refreshing climb up 327 steps with viewing platforms along the way. We are rewarded with more and more gorgeous views the higher we climb!
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| Still another view of Geirangerfjord — this time from Storfossen |
We walk back along a different route,
taking these pictures as we go:
We grab a bite to eat, then tender back to the Koningsdam for the much-anticipated cruise back through Geirangerfjord, which may just be the most majestic fjord in Norway!
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| We depart Geiranger at 5:00 pm, then begin cruising gorgeous Geirangerfjord. |
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| We approach famous Seven Sisters Waterfalls (on the right) |
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| Can you identify each of the Seven Sisters??????? |
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This isn't a Sister—but it's majestic! (See ferry boat for scale.)
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| Look back! That other ship is gaining on us ... Go, Koningsdam! GO! |
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| There's no hurry. It's a once-in-a-lifetime experience and we relish every second! |
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BERGEN, NORWAY—OLD TOWN TOUR AND MOUNT FLOIEN: July 20, 2017
This is a much-anticipated port. Erin's daughters believe we're going to Arendelle! They know that Disney animators used Bergen's old wharf district as inspiration for the city of Arendelle, a setting in the movie "Frozen." Our next door neighbor, Barbara Ferreri, has Norwegian roots and encouraged us to "Definitely see Bergen!" So we find ourselves in Bergen on a beautiful, sunny day!
We select a tour of Bergen by bus and on foot, with a funicular ride to the top of Mount Floien, 1,200 feet above sea level. Luckily, we get to the funicular station early in the day, as the line is growing quickly. From the top, we enjoy magnificent views of Bergen and surrounding areas. These settings really couldn't be more beautiful.
When we return to the lower funicular station, our tour continues on foot. We walk through the ancient buildings and alleyways of the Bryggan Wharf
— scenes straight out of the MIddle Ages (or "Frozen").
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| Bergen's Famous Fish and Flower Market |
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| Stockfish is unsalted fish, usually cod, dried by cold air on wooden racks. |
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| Bryggen Historic Harbor District |
We depart Bergen at 8:00 pm. Not long after leaving Bergen we pass under Askoy Bridge which is just tall enough to allow the Koningsdam to clear by one foot! The decks are crowded with passengers who are monitoring this extremely close clearance!
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| Koningsdam approaches Askoy Bridge, which allows one foot of clearance. |
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| Passengers are packed on the Sky Deck, monitoring the ship's clearance. |
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| Here she goes, for better or worse... |
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| She made it by a foot and survives to sail another day!! |
A few other sites along Byfjorden as we cruise further from Bergen:
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FLAM, NORWAY—BEST OF FLAM: Friday, July 20, 2017
Today's tour includes highlights of the Aurlandsfjord region. We are most excited about riding the Flam Railroad, but see beautiful scenery from the bus, as well. A surprise highlight is the Stalheimskleviane — the steepest road in Norway.
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| The MS Koningsdam alongside Pier in Flam, Norway |
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| Gudvangen on Naeroyfjord |
We pass through the Naeroy Valley, negotiating serpentine bends of the Stalheimskleviane
— the steepest road in Norway
— skirting the Sivle and Stalheim Waterfalls.
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| Sivlefossen |
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| Tvinde Waterfall |
As we near Voss, we pass lovely cabins nestled around lush ski areas. Our coach passes through Voss' central business district as it makes its way toward Fleisher's Hotel, where lunch awaits. After we eat, our guide cuts us loose to tour on our own. Here are some photos we take in and around Voss:
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| Vangsvetnet Lake in Voss, Norway |
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| Lake Mirrors Beautiful Hillside |
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| Voss Stone Church (Vangskyrkja) - Built from 1271-77 |
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| Gorgeous Altar inside Voss Stone Church |
We board the train at Voss Station. This will be the first leg
of our trip back to Flam.
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| Fleisher's Hotel and Train Station in Voss, Norway |
We pass back through the Roundalen Valley and
the Gravhalsen Tunnel enroute to Myrdal Station, situated on the main
line between Oslo and Bergen. At Myrdal Station we transfer to one of the most spectacular railroad journeys in all of Norway, the Flam Railroad. The line is only 12 miles long
— however the journey lasts around 50 minutes
— as it descends from 2,844 feet above sea level at Myradal Station to 15 feet above sea level in Flam.
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| We wait at Myradal Station to travel the famous Flam Railroad |
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| My neighbor suggested traveling the main line between Oslo and Bergen. |
The Flam Line passes directly in front of Kjosfossen waterfall. We are allowed to get off the train for five minutes for a surprise. A woman dressed as a legendary Huldra (a seductive forest creature in Scandinavian folklore) magically appears to dance and sing beside the waterfall. The Huldra actresses are all students from the Norwegian Ballet School.
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| Kjosfossen Waterfall and Huldra Dancer |
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| This is the most super long waterfall we see from the train. |
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| Beautiful Naeroy River Valley |
Flam Railroad follows the Naeroy River from Gudvangen on Naeroyfjord. From here it is a relatively short ride back to Flam, although much of the route is through tunnels. Soon we see Aurlandsfjord ahead, where the Koningsdam is anchored. Scenic cruising of Sognefjord soon after we depart Flam is
also a treat. This is our final port before returning to Amsterdam, so
it's a bittersweet day.
We've had the greatest time cruising grand fjords all along the coast of Norway. We highly recommend this cruise to anyone who may be interested. Words cannot adequately describe the stunning beauty of these majestic fjords.
